chawanmushi

(or what to cook when you're depleted)

A kind of superflu has been sweeping across the Netherlands. I fell ill first, and then Wex. This is our second time ill this winter, and it makes me wonder if our immunity has gotten weak with age, or if this is simply part and parcel of us living in post-Corona times. After a few feverish nights of body aches and nausea, all I wanted to eat was something uncomplicated and comforting. I suppose it is quite a common experience for people to crave foods they had as children when they are in a vulnerable, compromised state, and what I desperately wanted to have was chawanmushi.

Chawanmushi is a steamed egg custard that is traditionally served within a lidded cup. It’s something I had whenever my family went out to a Japanese restaurant. The quivering custard holds an assortment of goodies in suspension — gingko nuts, chicken, shrimp, mushroom — which, when steamed within the egg, releases a kind of clear broth that wells up around the spoon. This has always been my favourite part.

First you’ll need heatproof vessels to steam and present the egg custard. You could, of course, use chawan, or tea cups that chawanmushi is named after. I chose larger cups because I wanted these to be “one-bowl” meals for us (I had little strength to prepare much more).

Fill the bowls with a variety of whatever you have in the fridge, cut into small, bite-sized pieces. For two of us, I used 100g diced chicken thigh, 2 diced shrimp, 100g baby spinach (blanched), 2 sliced mushrooms, 30g sliced French beans, and two pinches of julienned carrot.

Beat 2 eggs — one per person — with 340ml water, 1 teaspoon dashi powder, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and 1 teaspoon sake, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour this through a strainer over the vessels and cover with foil or an upturned saucer. This prevents condensation from getting into the custard and marring the surface. Steam for 30 minutes on low heat, or until set to the touch. Serve on its own, or alongside steamed rice.